Coastal Morphodynamics at Skallingen, SW Denmark: High Energy Conditions

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The present paper discusses some preliminary results from a field experiment on sediment transport and morphological change on a beach subjected to storm surge activity. The data were collected at the barrier spit of Skallingen during October/November 1996. This period was characterized by a succession of storms which resulted in high water and wave energy levels, culminating in a storm surge per se. The beach and the dune ramp eroded; however, contrary to expectations, a subtidal bar migrated onshore and the intertidal swash bar appeared to display a cyclic behaviour dependent upon strong linkages between morphology and hydrodynamics. Morphological changes in the intertidal zone were primarily accomplished by mean currents with oscillatory motions playing a subordinate role. Longshore sediment transport measured during conditions with moderately strong winds blowing alongshore, was dominated by wave-induced currents with aeolian transport being a secondary contribution. Preliminary estimates suggest that some 30-35% of the sediment eroded from the beach and dunes is retained on the barrier through onshore aeolian transport and overwash activity.

Original languageEnglish
JournalGeografisk Tidsskrift
Volume98
Pages (from-to)20-30
Number of pages11
ISSN0016-7223
Publication statusPublished - 1 Jan 1998

    Research areas

  • Aeolian processes, Sediment budget, Sediment transport, Storm surge, Swash bars

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