From Cool to Un-cool to Re-cool: Nehru and Mao tunics in the sixties and post-sixties West

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingBook chapterResearchpeer-review

Standard

From Cool to Un-cool to Re-cool : Nehru and Mao tunics in the sixties and post-sixties West. / Langkjær, Michael Alexander.

Global Textile Encounters. ed. / Marie-Louise Nosch; Zhao Feng; Lotika Varadarajan. Vol. 20 Oxford : Oxbow Books, 2014. p. 227-236 (ancient textiles series, Vol. 20).

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingBook chapterResearchpeer-review

Harvard

Langkjær, MA 2014, From Cool to Un-cool to Re-cool: Nehru and Mao tunics in the sixties and post-sixties West. in M-L Nosch, Z Feng & L Varadarajan (eds), Global Textile Encounters. vol. 20, Oxbow Books, Oxford, ancient textiles series, vol. 20, pp. 227-236.

APA

Langkjær, M. A. (2014). From Cool to Un-cool to Re-cool: Nehru and Mao tunics in the sixties and post-sixties West. In M-L. Nosch, Z. Feng, & L. Varadarajan (Eds.), Global Textile Encounters (Vol. 20, pp. 227-236). Oxford: Oxbow Books. ancient textiles series, Vol.. 20

Vancouver

Langkjær MA. From Cool to Un-cool to Re-cool: Nehru and Mao tunics in the sixties and post-sixties West. In Nosch M-L, Feng Z, Varadarajan L, editors, Global Textile Encounters. Vol. 20. Oxford: Oxbow Books. 2014. p. 227-236. (ancient textiles series, Vol. 20).

Author

Langkjær, Michael Alexander. / From Cool to Un-cool to Re-cool : Nehru and Mao tunics in the sixties and post-sixties West. Global Textile Encounters. editor / Marie-Louise Nosch ; Zhao Feng ; Lotika Varadarajan. Vol. 20 Oxford : Oxbow Books, 2014. pp. 227-236 (ancient textiles series, Vol. 20).

Bibtex

@inbook{3989efdfbd9943febe33656d3c20f0a4,
title = "From Cool to Un-cool to Re-cool: Nehru and Mao tunics in the sixties and post-sixties West",
abstract = "This chapter re-examines the vicissitudes of fashionableness of Nehru and Mao jackets in the 1960s-1970s West. The fashion dynamics of these jackets without lapels and featuring standing or high turn-down military-style collars calls for renewed investigation and a comparative analysis. Although scholarship of their Sino/Indic style antecedents is well developed, misperceptions as to sources and impulses behind their vogue (such as the Beatles’ having made the Nehru jacket popular following their trips to India in 1966/1968 or its having originated with a single celebrity designer like Cassini – or was it F{\'e}ruch or Cardin?) stand in need of revision. Preliminary probing suggests some initial Nehru- and Mao-jacket awareness via mass circulation journals such as ‘National Geographic’ and ‘Life’. Also noted are stereotype references to the mystique of India and threat of China found in for instance James Bond films and the 1964-65 TV series ‘Jonny Quest’, and going back to ‘Fu Manchu’ yellow peril novels and cinema, and an austere, disciplined, quasi-martial silhouette that lends itself to the generic attire of masterminds and super-villains. How do all these aspects relate to one another? Everything suggests the initially ‘cool’ as opposed to later ‘un-cool’ (and the still later ‘re-cool’) connotations of these jackets have had little to do with their intrinsic qualities as apparel.",
keywords = "Faculty of Humanities, Sixties Fashion, Nehru tunics, Mao tunics, Fashion and ideology, Mass circulation magazines and fashion, Cross-cultural fashion activity, James Bond and fashion, Supervillains and fashion, Jonny Quest and fashion, Yellow peril and fashion, Ravi Shankar and fashion, Achkan and fashion, China and fashion, India and fashion, National Geographic and fashion, Mod style and fashion, Lenny Bruce and fashion, Biography of things, Textiles",
author = "Langkj{\ae}r, {Michael Alexander}",
year = "2014",
language = "English",
isbn = "978-1-78297-735-3",
volume = "20",
series = "ancient textiles series",
publisher = "Oxbow Books",
pages = "227--236",
editor = "Marie-Louise Nosch and Zhao Feng and Lotika Varadarajan",
booktitle = "Global Textile Encounters",

}

RIS

TY - CHAP

T1 - From Cool to Un-cool to Re-cool

T2 - Nehru and Mao tunics in the sixties and post-sixties West

AU - Langkjær, Michael Alexander

PY - 2014

Y1 - 2014

N2 - This chapter re-examines the vicissitudes of fashionableness of Nehru and Mao jackets in the 1960s-1970s West. The fashion dynamics of these jackets without lapels and featuring standing or high turn-down military-style collars calls for renewed investigation and a comparative analysis. Although scholarship of their Sino/Indic style antecedents is well developed, misperceptions as to sources and impulses behind their vogue (such as the Beatles’ having made the Nehru jacket popular following their trips to India in 1966/1968 or its having originated with a single celebrity designer like Cassini – or was it Féruch or Cardin?) stand in need of revision. Preliminary probing suggests some initial Nehru- and Mao-jacket awareness via mass circulation journals such as ‘National Geographic’ and ‘Life’. Also noted are stereotype references to the mystique of India and threat of China found in for instance James Bond films and the 1964-65 TV series ‘Jonny Quest’, and going back to ‘Fu Manchu’ yellow peril novels and cinema, and an austere, disciplined, quasi-martial silhouette that lends itself to the generic attire of masterminds and super-villains. How do all these aspects relate to one another? Everything suggests the initially ‘cool’ as opposed to later ‘un-cool’ (and the still later ‘re-cool’) connotations of these jackets have had little to do with their intrinsic qualities as apparel.

AB - This chapter re-examines the vicissitudes of fashionableness of Nehru and Mao jackets in the 1960s-1970s West. The fashion dynamics of these jackets without lapels and featuring standing or high turn-down military-style collars calls for renewed investigation and a comparative analysis. Although scholarship of their Sino/Indic style antecedents is well developed, misperceptions as to sources and impulses behind their vogue (such as the Beatles’ having made the Nehru jacket popular following their trips to India in 1966/1968 or its having originated with a single celebrity designer like Cassini – or was it Féruch or Cardin?) stand in need of revision. Preliminary probing suggests some initial Nehru- and Mao-jacket awareness via mass circulation journals such as ‘National Geographic’ and ‘Life’. Also noted are stereotype references to the mystique of India and threat of China found in for instance James Bond films and the 1964-65 TV series ‘Jonny Quest’, and going back to ‘Fu Manchu’ yellow peril novels and cinema, and an austere, disciplined, quasi-martial silhouette that lends itself to the generic attire of masterminds and super-villains. How do all these aspects relate to one another? Everything suggests the initially ‘cool’ as opposed to later ‘un-cool’ (and the still later ‘re-cool’) connotations of these jackets have had little to do with their intrinsic qualities as apparel.

KW - Faculty of Humanities

KW - Sixties Fashion

KW - Nehru tunics

KW - Mao tunics

KW - Fashion and ideology

KW - Mass circulation magazines and fashion

KW - Cross-cultural fashion activity

KW - James Bond and fashion

KW - Supervillains and fashion

KW - Jonny Quest and fashion

KW - Yellow peril and fashion

KW - Ravi Shankar and fashion

KW - Achkan and fashion

KW - China and fashion

KW - India and fashion

KW - National Geographic and fashion

KW - Mod style and fashion

KW - Lenny Bruce and fashion

KW - Biography of things

KW - Textiles

M3 - Book chapter

SN - 978-1-78297-735-3

VL - 20

T3 - ancient textiles series

SP - 227

EP - 236

BT - Global Textile Encounters

A2 - Nosch, Marie-Louise

A2 - Feng, Zhao

A2 - Varadarajan, Lotika

PB - Oxbow Books

CY - Oxford

ER -

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